The more efficient your shop, the more likely you are to work and have fun in what should be your home’s most interesting room.

To help our readers in their quest for creating the most efficient and dependable shops, we’ve gathered a list of the 20 best tips for organizing your workshop. As well, we’ve included some samples of the most practical shop layouts with popular configurations.

1. Make a Plan: Before you start any woodworking project, you have a plan, right? (Or so we hope!) The same should apply to workshop organization. Draw out your shop layout and play around with it on paper until you get it right. Then, start to add all the details that make a shop run like a well-oiled machine.

2. Easy Reach: Mount your tool’s accessories next to the machine; blades, pushsticks and wrenches all can fit in simple plywood storage.

3. Tools on Wheels: Use castors or wheeled bases for tools that may need to be moved around for space and practicality.

4. Look Up…: Use all the vertical space you can by adding storage overhead wherever possible. And be sure to have a safe stepstool handy for reaching.

5. …And Up Again: Store your electrical cables off the ground and run them along the ceiling. You won’t trip over them or have to clean up around them.

6. Storage Below: Store blades and rulers on the doors of pegboards, then store tools inside.

7. Keep it Clean: Sweep and vacuum during your workday and before you close up for the night. It’s simple, but many woodworkers skip this step.

8. Pair Off: Put two similar tools, such as a spindle and belt sander, on the same rolling surface. The cabinet base includes accessory storage.

9. Clamp Rack: A tall storage area has dowels across, spaced every 6″ to 8” for, well, clamping.

10. Don’t Be Afraid of Prefab: Just because someone else built it doesn’t mean it can’t help you get organized.

11. Electrify: Plan where you need electrical outlets. Use your ceiling space and extension cords to keep your floor space clear.

12. Retrofit: If you can’t add new outlets, use a retractable cord reel to keep power close at hand but cords off the floor.

13. Cleats Galore: Use a support-rail system to hang cabinetry easily and securely. Secure a 45° angle-cleat to studs and another cleat to the back of the cabinet.

14. Make It Your Own: You know your workshop needs better than anyone. Make a list of how you want your shop to function and find a way to achieve those goals. Also, make a list of your tools and figure out where each would best be placed for maximum efficiency and enjoyment. Because, after all, a workshop needs to be fun to functional.

15. Reuse It: Something old can be new again. Turn an old filing cabinet into a dream storage spot for blades, sanding discs and anything else that needs a home. Shop-built inserts that fit in the drawers are the key.

16. Add Colour: Just because it’s a shop, doesn’t mean it can’t look good! Use coloured laminates for cabinet doors and shelving. Even the mitre gauges should match for a professional finish.

17. Power Up: Build a simple charging station for all your battery packs. It will keep chargers and batteries together and you can easily see what needs juice and what doesn’t.

18. In Clear View: You’ll not only save space, but you’ll also save time and money if you build shelving for your nuts, bolts, screws and other hardware. That way you can easily see what you need to buy and what you have plenty of on hand.

19. Use Every Surface: Chalkboard paint isn’t just for playrooms. Add it to a wall or a cabinet door and you will always have a place to make notes or quick drawings.

20. MacGyver DIY: If you can’t find the hardware you need, make it! For example, using a carabiner and a Velcro strap, you can secure a dust-collection hose. 

1. Flush with ideas (February 2002)

For those woodworkers who can’t justify buying a jointer, Gregory Theriault of Grand Pre, N.S., has a solution that will cost you less than $50. Buy a piece of aluminum flat stock, about 1/2″-thick x 2 1/2″-wide by as long as you need. Drill some holes a few inches from each end and screw the aluminum to the board. The edge of the board should overhang the aluminum along its entire length. Joint a saw-ripped edge with one pass of a router spinning a 1″-long, bearing-guided, flush-trim bit.

2. Knock ’em down fasteners (April 2002)

Whether it’s for furniture you may need to take apart for storage or simply a need to assemble some 2x4s together temporarily, Chuck Winslow of Ashcroft, B.C., designed some knockdown fasteners. Drill a hole about 2″ from the end of a piece of wood using a 35mm bit, then drill a 1/4″ hole through the end of the wood to meet up with the 35mm hole and, finally, drill a corresponding hole in the piece of wood to be attached. Now, cut a length of 1″ steel pipe slightly shorter than the thickness of the wood and drill a 1/4″ hole centred in its side. To assemble the joint, slip the length of pipe into the 35mm hole, insert a bolt, then thread on a nut and tighten.

3. Milk carton magic (Summer 2005)

Skip the mess left behind when you drill into plaster to put up pictures, hooks or shelves. John Couto of Lorraine, Que., suggests using an empty box, such as a milk carton. Cut off the bottom and secure it a few inches below the spot you plan to drill using painter’s masking tape (to protect your wall’s surface). When you drill, the plaster residue falls in the box instead of all over the floor.

4. All rolled up (Winter 2006)

Wipe-on poly is a favourite finish for many workshoppers. To keep hands clean and provide a “smooth as silk” finish, Charles Mak in Calgary runs to his home office for a little help. First, he folds a soft, clean cloth in a couple of layers, then holds it together with a 3″ bulldog clip. Then, he pours a small amount of the finish into a dish, dips the cloth brush as if it were a regular foam brush, then applies an even coat of wipe-on poly while holding the handle of the clip. You also can fold and clip the cloth into different shapes to suit the job.

5. Hidden gem (April 2007)

After discovering that the local hardware store didn’t stock hidden deck fasteners, Warren Chernoff of Castlegar, B.C., made a homemade version. He ripped a 3″-wide strip of pressure-treated 1/2″-thick plywood and screwed it to the top of the joists, keeping one end flush and letting the other side overhang. Then, he screwed the deck boards, up from the bottom, to this plywood. This provides a great deck with no visible sign of mechanical fasteners.

6. Hip to be square (October 2007)

When Ross Dokis of Hanmer, Ont., found the average T-square wasn’t large enough for some jobs, such as cutting drywall or large sheets of plywood, he made his own out of a piece of 3/4″ x 4″ pine. Rip the board to 2″ wide, then cut the vertical piece to 40″ high and the horizontal section to 30″ long. Screw the two pieces together. Your large T-square is ready for the shop!

7. A flawless fill (September 2009)

Find it hard to decide whether to fill trim before finishing (which requires a lot of sanding) or to fill after finishing (which brings the risk of scratching the finish)? The solution that Steve Trutenko of Calgary came up with is simple: place some green painter’s tape over a piece of trim that has been finished, then attach it using a brad nailer. Before removing the green tape, smear filler into the small holes in the green tape that the brad created. Remove the green tape carefully—no sanding or touch-up required.

8. Store it right (November 2009)

All workshoppers know you shouldn’t store a plane resting its sole on a surface. Barry Homer of Pierrefonds, Que., shared his method for storing planes: he hangs his planes by their knobs and keeps their irons off the wall with well-placed springs.

9. The right angle (Winter 2011)

This classic tip comes from “1001 Tips for Woodworkers,” by Percy Blandford. One way to remove most of the glue in one pass is to use a drinking straw, which can get into the angle and scoop out the glue without spreading it.

10. Artful achievement (March 2011)

Tired of the tedious task of hanging picture frames, Robert Paradis of Orleans, Ont., got creative with a drywall screw and paint stir stick. Attach the drywall screw to the end of the paint stir stick, then hang your frame from the screw. Find the perfect place for the art, take off the frame and press on the fastener. Now, you know exactly where to drill for your fastener.

Click here to view the embedded video.

How does solar power work?

Solar power is generated by thin silicon panels, divided into photovoltaic cells, which act as semiconductors. When sunlight hits the cells, it excites the electrons and produces a direct electrical current.  To generate power for your home, the panels are either installed on your rooftop or angle mounted on your property. Most urban users favour a rooftop set-up so they won’t have to sacrifice valuable backyard real estate, but it’s not unusual to see a freestanding panel in rural areas where properties are generally larger.

Will solar work for your home?

Most solar power companies offer a free home assessment to determine if you’re a viable candidate. You need to have a south-slanting roof to properly capitalize on the sun’s energy. A slightly east- or west-facing roof can work, but there has to be a certain level of southern exposure. A roof angled at 30-degrees is the sweet spot for solar power—the perfect middle ground for the sun’s position in both winter and summer. If you have a flat roof, you can still take advantage of solar power but it will require a more complicated mounting system to set the panels on an angle.

The assessor will take measurements of your roof to ensure it’s large enough to accommodate a solar power system. To give you an idea of how your home measures up: Each panel is approximately 3 feet by 6 feet and the average house has 20 to 50 panels installed.

The majority of solar users are still hooked into the power grid. Their panels generate most of their energy, but the electricity produced by their local hydro company supplements it, so when the sun goes down, they’re not left cooking over flames and reading by candlelight.

If you live or cottage in a remote location and plan to rely on solar for all or most of your power, converting is a little more complicated. The system has to be wired to feed into battery banks that will store a surplus of energy, which adds another cost and setup fee.

How is solar installed?

Solar power companies generally install the panels they sell. They employ licensed electrical contractors who are specially trained in rooftop safety. The process takes about five days: one day to rack and mount the system, three days to do the wiring and one day to connect to the grid. (But this can vary according to company.)

If you’re thinking of solar power and will need to repair your roof within the next five years or so, you’re better off pulling the trigger before you have the panels installed. Every time you fix your roof you’ll incur the cost of labour ($500 to $1000) to remove the solar panels and re-attach them.

Although we do live in the age of DIY, and it’s possible to buy solar panels direct from the manufacturer, it’s not wise to attempt an installation yourself. There are too many technical factors to consider, though you could watch the experts in action in case you ever need to make adjustments or re-attach your panels after a roof repair. Mark Pinsent from InPhase Power, a Toronto-based company, says his clients sometimes shadow him on an install to learn the ropes. There is usually a 3-year warranty on labour and 25 years on the panels themselves.

Although the installation itself doesn’t take a lot of time, there is lengthy waiting process before you can get started on a solar power system. You need to get building permits, have an electrical inspection and apply to the power company for permission to use their system. The paperwork can take up to 9 months to push through. The good news is that most solar companies will handle all the legwork.  You may be in for a long wait, but at least you won’t be pulling your hair out dealing with red tape!

How much does solar power cost?

Finally, we come to the million-dollar question—or in this case, the $35,000 dollar question. The cost of installing solar power on a mid-sized home is between $30,000 to $40,000 dollars, which covers about 30 panels. If you’re connecting off the grid, expect a higher price tag to cover the cost of extra wiring and materials.

Those 30 panels will produce about 8350 kW hours of energy a year or 22 kW hours a day. It doesn’t quite cover the average household consumption of 30 kW per day, but it will certainly make a big dent in what you use. With a decent-sized solar power system, users can knock thousands of dollars a year off their energy bills. Over a 25-year period, the system can more than pay for itself in energy savings.

How can I offset my costs?

There are lots of different programs available for solar power users across Canada, offered by provincial and municipal governments, along with hydro companies. The most common incentive is the net metering program, which tracks energy usage and offers incentives to solar power users who produce more energy than they consume. Some power companies offer credits on future energy bills and others actually cut users a cheque for producing more energy than they need. Contact your local hydro company to find out if net metering is available in your area.

Residents of Ontario can take advantage of a government sponsored Feed-In-Tariff program that pays customers 54 cents for every kW hour they produce. Because of this program, solar power has become a popular investment strategy, with users making at least a 4 percent return over 20 years.

Going green is a great cause, but with solar energy offering huge savings and a potential profit, consumers are increasingly swayed by the financial benefits.

1. Pick a project that isn’t too simple, but one that kids can finish by the end of the party. We chose the gumball machine from the Winter 2012 issue of Canadian Home Workshop.

I couldn’t imagine a group of eight-year-old boys spending two hours building bird houses; but to get those gumballs, they remained relatively focused.

2. Make a big deal about safety. We printed a list of nine safety rules and had each boy read one out to his peers. We encouraged everyone to point out safety slip-ups to each other, for example: “Those glasses won’t protect your eyes if they’re on your forehead.”

3. Precut components to save time, but don’t do all of the work. Give the kids several steps to complete before moving on to the next part of the build.

4. The serious tools, such as the drillpress and the bandsaw, obviously require adult supervision. But if you make jigs to position parts for the kids, they’ll find the machines safe and easy to use. Trusting them with these types of tasks is a great confidence-builder.

5. If you can, divide up each workspace with scrap-wood corrals to contain project pieces and to keep the kids from wandering around the shop.

6. Hand out parts and tools as they are needed rather than in one big pile at the beginning.

7. Limit the number of guests, based on their age, the size of your shop and the complexity of the project.

8. Enlist some help. For nine kids in the shop, we had three adults to make sure everything went smoothly.

Nelson’s and Elliot’s party was a great success. Their friends loved making a fun project and their parents were impressed that their children had accomplished so much in such a short time. And I had an excuse to make a tablesaw-shaped birthday cake for my boys.

But in the real estate world, especially in a hot market, taking our real estate agent’s advice to de-clutter and refresh our home was a key strategy to commanding the price we expected to get. “I always tell my clients that once they have made the decision to sell, their house is no longer their home—they need to look at it like an investment,” says Natalie Moodley, a sales representative for Royal LePage Connect in Ajax, Ont. “Then the question really becomes: how can I maximize value?”

De-clutter

I’ll admit, our two-bedroom bungalow was overflowing with stuff. Our non-essentials were packed into boxes and bins and delivered on weeknight trips to a local storage locker. Even our closets were thinned out to give the illusion that they would provide ample space for someone else’s wardrobe. “The best way to maximize the value of your home is by minimizing the amount of stuff,” recommends Moodley. “This will allow the room to show off its best features and buyers can see it for what it really is.” And, whatever you do, says Moodley, don’t move your clutter from one room to the next!

De-personalize

Family photos are usually the first thing a real estate agent will recommend you eliminate as prospective buyers want to picture themselves in the home. They’re also a distraction, says Moodley. Furthermore, it’s a good idea to hide valuables and pack away personal treasures. “If you love it, pack it away,” she advises. “This prevents it from getting broken or stolen.”

Renovate (if necessary)

Consult your real estate agent to discuss your options. “Your realtor will help you understand the deference between a buyer’s market and a seller’s market, and when and what to renovate,” says Moodley. “It is a fact that if you have identical homes, one outdated and needing upgrades and the other modernized and updated, even if you reduce the price to account for work needed to be done, the home that is completely updated will sell faster and for more money,” she explains.

However, sometimes painting or replacing kitchen cabinet doors, or swapping out old sinks and faucets with shiny new versions, will help modernize a kitchen without needing to fully renovate, says Moodley.

We decided to renovate one of our two bathrooms, but left the kitchen as is. The only thing we did in that room, besides a thorough polish, was replace the old, dark stove with a white one to match the newer fridge.

Refresh each room

“In most cases, a room just needs a good cleaning and a fresh coat of paint,” says Moodley, who recommends a neutral palette. It is a fact that kitchens and bathrooms do sell homes, so I always tell my clients to pay close attention to these rooms.” Keep an eye out for easy, but crucial cosmetic fixes, like holes in the wall, missing trim and cracked tiles. “Sometimes we live in a house for so long that we miss the details, and the details really do make a difference,” she says. I found it amazing how simply painting our trim brightened each room.

Clean, clean, clean!

Give every inch of your home some serious elbow grease, especially high-traffic areas like the kitchen and bathroom. Pay attention to every nook and cranny, including inside your cupboards, windows (inside and out), carpet stains and mould spots in bathroom crevices. “You want to ensure that you do a thorough cleaning and complete all minor repairs,” says Moodley.

Stage each room

When you flip through the pages of a decor magazine, you don’t see books piled haphazardly, crushed cushions on the couch or drink rings on the coffee table. Faucets should be polished, beds made with perfect corners and everything should be organized, folded and neat as a pin. Make your house look photo-ready.

A home stager, says Moodley, will help you assess “the role” a room and move furniture around accordingly. For example, if you have a small dining room and a large dining room set, you may want to move the furniture into the larger living room and create a smaller living area.

I definitely believe that our attention to detail inside and out in the weeks leading up to our listing helped increase our home’s appeal, which resulted in multiple offers—and a pretty satisfied couple.

Before-you-list checklist

• Take an objective walk through your home and try to see it through the eyes of a buyer.
• Consult your real estate agent for advice on the renos or minor fixes that will get you the most bang for your buck.
• De-clutter, moving non-essentials to storage or endearing yourself to family or friends who can clear a corner of a basement or garage.
• Hold a yard sale to get rid of gently used items you no longer want.
• Refresh doors and trim with paint, and, if necessary, repaint a room or two.
• Give your home a thorough spring cleaning (no matter the season) from top to bottom.
• Replace burnt light bulbs, fix leaky faucets, empty all waste baskets, etc. Give the illusion that no one has been home.
• Style your rooms (yourself or with the help of a home stager).
• Don’t forget the outside! Depending on the season, clean out the gardens, plant some fresh flowers and get rid of any yard junk.

No matter how thrilled or bored you are by the prospect of maintaining your home, you’ll need at least a few tools to complete basic repairs and upgrades. That’s why most people keep a screwdriver, hammer and tape measure somewhere in the house. But what many homeowners don’t understand is how much more pleasant maintenance becomes with good tools. I’m not necessarily talking about expensive, pro-grade stuff, either. There are many affordable options that will make your around-the-house tasks easier and more enjoyable.

1. Toolbox

Organization is important, even if you only have ten tools. That’s why you need a toolbox. I suggest one with metal latches, lots of room and a rubber seal around the lid to keep things dry. This box is also strong and long enough to accommodate a 24” level – another must-have home improvement tool.

2. 18-volt cordless drill

If you can only afford one power tool, this is the type to get. There are many good brands out there. Regardless of the brand you choose, keep your eye out for three specific features as you select a drill kit. A model with two batteries let’s you work continuously while the second battery is charging. You’ll also appreciate a fast charger—one that fully recharges a dead battery in an hour or less. Cheap drill packages sometimes come with chargers that take 3 to 8 hours to do their job. And finally, consider a model with hammer drilling capacity. This allows much faster drilling progress in brick, block and concrete.

3. Tape measure

You will want a tape measure that can extend out fairly far before folding downwards under its own weight. This is especially helpful when you’re measuring large spans without a helper. A good quality tape measure can extend 10 to 13 feet before collapsing.

4. Hammer

Nothing fancy needed here. A 16-ounce claw-style hammer works fine for hanging pictures, driving small nails and assembling things. If you’ll be building a deck, dock or backyard shed, a 20- to 24-ounce framing hammer with straight claws works better.

5. Utility Knife

A good utility knife is simple, strong and easy to reload. It’s a good idea to get a knife that takes wider, stronger blades for heavy work.

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