How to seal your driveway
You see them at all of the home-improvement centres: stacks of 20-l pails of driveway sealant with pictures of beautiful homes with jet-black driveways gracing the labels, along with equally clever displays of rollers, squeegees and all the rest of the driveway-sealing paraphernalia. The question is: can you really seal your own driveway and get results that not only look professional but last as well? Sure you can!
Getting a top-notch sealing job on your driveway isn’t difficult, and the results are really dependent on only two things: quality materials and proper preparation.
There are all kinds of formulas available, including coal tar, water-based and acrylic sealants. Although these apply and dry differently, the prep work is pretty much the same.
The driveway leading to my shop (above) was in desperate need of a makeover. But before I pulled out the sealer, the first and most important step was to make sure the driveway was clean. Sand, spills, small gravel and dirt can ruin a perfect sealing job, so take extra care here.
On a dry day, blow away debris with a leaf blower. Take extra time to clear out any cracks. I completed a dry cleaning of the entire driveway, then I did it again to be sure. If you don’t have access to a blower, a broom and a lot of elbow grease will get the job done as well.
Next, the driveway gets a bath. Take the time to scrub any oil stains with a stiff brush and a degreaser (such as TSP) mixed with water. Then give the surface a rinse. If you have access to a pressure washer, it will make the initial cleaning go a lot faster. If not, a regular hose with a jet nozzle will suffice. The key here is to blast any stubborn deposits out of the nooks and crannies in the surface of the driveway. Clean from the top of the drive to the bottom, once again ensuring you get any cracks thoroughly cleaned out.
Again, once you’ve completed the entire area, do it again. This time, however, rinse the driveway down with just a hose. In the case of sand and mud, water volume cleans better than water pressure as it carries the debris away. Soak the area down completely, then allow it to dry. Any remaining dirt that was missed will be obvious once the asphalt dries, but it will be sitting on top of the pavement and will easily blow away with another quick pass of the leaf blower.
Care for the cracks
Nothing is worse than seeing a beautifully sealed driveway only to notice an obvious crack that ruins the overall appeal. Take the time to fill any cracks or gaps with a driveway crack filler and a caulking gun. One note for caulking the cracks: most crack sealants are asphalt-based, which means they need to be warm to be applied easily. Set your tube of caulking out in the sun for a few hours before attempting to use it. It will come out of the tube much more smoothly, and do a better job of sealing the cracks.
Seal of approval
Plan your workday ahead of time. Check the forcast and pick your day carefully for this step. A sunny and warm day with no chance of rain for at least 24 hours is ideal. Keep a lot of drinking water close by and make sure to wear sunscreen on the sunny days. And remember: laying black sealant on a black driveway under midday summer sun is hot work; so, be prepared.
Depending on the type of sealant you are using, you may be able to brush, roll, squeegee or spray it on. Regardless of which method you use, it’s important to take the time to cut in around the edges. Treat your driveway as though it was a room receiving a coat of paint. Tape off where necessary, cut in any edges and make sure that anything you don’t want sealant on (bushes, cars, etc.) is taken care of.
I used a coal-tar emulsion product, which is too thick to spray with anything except for a heavy commercial pump. I applied this sealant with with a heavy-nap roller and pole. You can use a standard roller tray to contain the sealant, but it’s even faster just to dip the whole roller into the pail. Even better: if your driveway is relatively level, you can pour out a puddle right on the drive and roll it out from there.
Start at the top of the driveway and work your way down to the road. Pay close attention to see if there are any light spots, drips or puddles as you go. Roll over these right away to avoid getting too far away to reach them without stepping on a just-sealed section.
Drying off
Most sealants need 24 to 48 hours to dry enough for you to drive on, so make sure someone doesn’t accidentally ruin your hard work by pulling into the drive before it’s ready. (Yes, it does happen. Don’t ask me how I know.)
Caution tape strung across the end of the drive works very well, or, at the very least, set up a makeshift blockade using the empty sealant cans and used rollers.
Once the sealant is dry, you’re left with a beautiful black driveway that’s ready to stand up to mother nature. Careful preparation and quality products all make an otherwise dismal job a piece of cake.
