|
|
 |
|
|
| |
 |
|
|
by
Rick Campbell
photo: Roger Yip
illustration: Len Churchill |
CUTE AS A BUG (part 2) |
 |
 |
 |
|
10. Trim
off any excess screen with a pair of scissors or a utility
knife. Nylon screen is better than aluminum because it
is more durable and it won’t crease |
11. Apply
a bead of hot-melt glue where screen meets wood. The glue
seals all seams. Do one section at a time so you can apply
a 1/2"-wide edging called “twill banding” |
12. Michelle
and Emily used a compass and straight edge to scribe the
door shape on a piece of Plexiglas. Use a scrollsaw or
coping saw to cut it out, sand the edges, then drill a
hole in the top for a pivot screw |
 |
 |
| CLICK
ABOVE TO ENLARGE ILLUSTRATION |
|
|
|
13. After
drilling a pilot hole in the appropriate end panel,
install the door using a #8 brass wood screw with a
cup washer under the head. Don’t overtighten the
screw. Make the handle with a 16" piece of webbing
belt. Secure the handle to the end panels with brass
screws and cup washers |
|
| YOU
WILL NEED |
| PART |
MATERIAL |
SIZE |
QTY. |
| Base |
cedar |
3/4"
x 5" x 8" |
1 |
| End
panels |
cedar |
3/4"
x 5" x 7" |
2 |
| Cross
brace |
hardwood
dowel |
1/2"
- dia. x 8 1/2" |
1 |
| Screen |
nylon
mesh |
10"
x 18" |
1 |
| Door |
plexiglas |
1/8"
x 4" x 5" |
1 |
| Mesh
edging |
twill
banding |
1/2"
x 60"* |
1 |
| Handle |
webbing
belt |
3/4"
x 16" |
1 |
| Screws |
brass |
#8
x 3/4" |
3 |
| Cup
washers |
brass |
#8 |
3 |
| *Total
length required |
|
| PART
1 | PART 2 |
|
|
|
|
| FREE
NEWSLETTER |
Subscribe to our newsletter. Every few weeks, you'll get a behind-the-scenes
peek at the magazine, the web site and the folks who put it all together.
CLICK HERE |
|
|
PROJECTS
