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by
Kathy Dalrymple
photos: Roger Yip
illustration: Len Churchill |
EASY EASEL (part 2) |
Building the Trays
The entire easel sits at a 15º angle from plumb, so when
you’re building the supply trays, you need to cut the
tray end pieces at a 75º angle. This allows the trays to
sit level when the easel is open.
Join the tray components with #20 biscuits and glue, then fit
them into place from the inside. Predrill and drive screws through
the flanges on the ends of the tray and into the legs using
#8 x 1 1/4" wood screws with cup washers.
Roll It
A big roll of paper is an essential part of my easel for Sarah,
because I know she loves to draw and draw and draw. You can
substitute chains or chest lid hardware for the crossbars and
dowels if a roll of paper isn’t necessary for your version
of the project.
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| It’s
easy to pull paper down
for a fresh canvas. When the
drawing is complete, the easel disassembles for
storage |
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Cut the crossbars to length, making a 15º angle on each
end. You can reuse these angled off-cuts to make mounting blocks.
Screw these blocks to the easel legs, positioned so they are
flush with the outside edges of the legs.
Drill pilot holes for the #10 x 2" bolts and wing nuts
that secure the crossbars. These not only allow you to remove
the paper roll easily, but they also make it easy to fold up
the easel.
Drill a 3/8"-deep x 1"-dia. hole in each crossbar,
5 1/2" from one end. Bore a second hole of the same size
across the centre of just one of the crossbars. You’ll
fasten the paper roll block to the other side, as you’ll
see.
There are two dowels on this project. One gets glued and screwed
in place for stability, the other is free-floating to allow
replacement of the paper roll. Cut the stabilizing dowel first,
making sure you have a snug fit between the crossbars. Drill
pilot holes in the ends of this dowel for #8 x 2" screws
(with cup washers), then glue and screw it in place between
the crossbars.
Now it’s time to cut the paper roll dowel to length by
measuring the span between the crossbars, then adding the depth
of the one central hole you drilled earlier. Cut the dowel just
long enough to pull out from the crossbars without binding.
The free end of the dowel is supported by the removable paper
roll block. When you want to install a new roll, undo the #10
x 2" bolts and wing nuts that hold the block in place.
Lift it up, pull the roll dowel out, add the new paper, then
bolt it all back up again.
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| PART
1 | PART 2 | PART
3 |
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