5 easy fixes for plumbing disasters

How to replace a toilet

As with a faucet replacement, different models of toilets may come with slightly different parts than what’s shown in the illustration, with some toilets, for example, the tank and bowl come as a single, seamless piece, and specific instructions that should be followed. But, regardless of manufacturer or size, this covers the basic steps for installing a two-piece toilet.

Step 1 here is to remove the old toilet. Start by shutting off the water supply. Flush the toilet a couple times and then scoop out any water remaining in the bowl and tank. (You’ll never get all the water out, so you’ll want to have some old towels handy to rest the parts on as you remove them.)

To remove the tank, you’ll need to disconnect the water supply line (have a bucket handy for the water sitting in the line) and remove the two nuts that secure the tank to the bowl.

Next, you’ll need to remove the nuts on the closet bolts that secure the bowl to the floor. Of course, the base of a toilet can be a very corrosive (not to mention, icky) environment. If you’re lucky, they’ll come off with a few turns of a wrench, but you may need a hacksaw or cut-off tool to remove them. If the existing closet bolts show any signs of corrosion, replace them with new ones. The flat heads fit into grooves in the flange. As with a faucet, you may need to cut away some caulking at the base first before the toilet can be removed.

Use a wet rag to plug the exposed hole temporarily, you don’t want to lose your wrench down there and, without the water in the toilet trap to stop the sewer gases, they will vent into the bathroom. Get the old toilet parts out of the way, and you’re ready to install your new one.

Note that new toilets generally don’t come with a wax ring in the box. Be sure to pick one up (they’re about $2) before leaving the store. You’ll also need to buy a seat that’s the appropriate size and shape for the bowl.

Lay your new bowl upside down on a towel or blanket to prevent scratching, then press the wax ring into place around the opening at the bottom of the bowl. Flip the bowl over, set it in place over the closet bolts and apply pressure evenly.

Thread washers and nuts over the bolts and secure. Don’t overtighten the bolts or you could crack the bowl base. You may have to cut the tops of the bolts off to fit the caps over them.

You’ll also need to flip the toilet tank upside down to fit a spud washer in place. Turn the tank back over, set it in place and thread the tank bolts (don’t forget the washers) through the tank and bowl. Tighten the nuts from below, again taking care to not overtighten.

Connect the water-supply line, turn the water on and, after the tank is filled, do a test flush. Once you’re sure that everything is functioning properly, install the toilet seat and finish off with a bead of caulking around the base of the bowl.

Tip: For additional advice, most manufacturers have installation and troubleshooting guides on their websites. Libraries and bookstores are filled with illustrated step-by-step guides or, if you prefer face-to-face advice, bring your confounding parts and a digital picture to the local hardware or plumbing-supply store.