Fixing wooden chairs

But wait, there’s more to consider besides removing old glue. If a joint has completely come apart, but the tenon still fits snugly into the mortise, then, after cleaning, you’re ready for glue–but not just any wood glue: you require the strongest-possible glue. Typically, yellow or brown carpenter’s glue works well, but read the fine print to check the pounds-per-inch strength rating. (Shervill’s favourite: Titebond III.)

Swab the glue deep into the joint using a Q-Tip, making sure you reach the bottom of the joint, and then clamp together and let dry for at least 24 hours.

Scenario 3: Major movement

OK, if you’re still reading, chances are your chair joints are not only coming apart, but the tenons are so loose they seem like sticks of spaghetti. Besides cleaning off glue residue, you’ll need to raise the wood grain by relaxing the wood and causing it to return to its “normal” size. How so? By steaming the tenon end using a tea kettle at full boil. The combination of heat and moisture from the steam will cause the fibres to spring back to their original position therefore restoring the fit.

Wrap the non-tenon section with a towel and concentrate the steam directly on the tenon end. Then, once relaxed, add the adhesive and clamp. “The moisture from the steaming will actually cause the glue to cure,” adds Shervill.

Of course, there’s a big difference between a long-term fix and a forever fix. To truly set the joint once and for all, Shervill recommends cutting a groove into the tenon, about three-quarters the overall length of the tenon deep, and then inserting a blind wedge (slightly thicker than the kerf width) into the tenon. Driving together the two pieces will cause the wedge to force apart the tenon once inside the mortise.

Sounds a bit complicated, but worth the effort if you want your chairs to last as long as your table, especially if they’re family heirlooms like mine.