Soundproof your garage or workshop

Campbell’s method requires double the number of studs, and it isn’t really suitable for load-bearing walls. So then, if one of your workshop walls is load-bearing, what can you do? You can’t isolate it because all the framing members are tied into it, so the best thing to do is to leave it alone. “Don’t use the electrical outlets on load-bearing walls, and don’t put up shelving or build anything else onto those walls,” says Goyda.

While you’re at it, use metal studs instead of wood studs; metal isn’t as rigid as wood, which means it’s better for sound absorption. Owens-Corning even makes a metal stud specifically designed for acoustical performance. QuietZone wall-framing studs are similar to resilient channel, the difference being that you don’t need to build out door jams. “Resilient channel adds another 1/2″ to the wall, which means you have to customize door jams,” says Goyda. “QuietZone studs fit inside 2×4 or 2×6 walls.” Of course, using these studs also carries a higher price tag: $10 per 8′ stud, compared with $3 or so for a wood or metal stud.

Final notes

You’ve padded your shop with thick drywall, acoustical batting and kept everything off the studs and joists–but sound is still leaving the shop and leading to another lonesome night sleeping on the couch. Don’t fret–marital bliss is only a few more steps away. Make sure there aren’t any gaps around electrical outlets or lights. “Pot lights are a big leaking point because they require air space and ventilation,” says Williams. “Buy the insulated box that goes over the pot light and then insulate around it. This will eliminate the sound leak.”

Doors and windows are also common leaky portals. Pay particular attention to glass thickness (thicker is better) and make sure the window is properly sealed and surrounded by insulation. Doors should fit tightly, and solid-wood or industrial-strength steel doors are best. And, finally, make sure all nooks and crannies are caulked and sealed. Caulk the bottoms of walls and wherever air and sound can seep through.

Now, get back to building that cherry hutch.

Sound solutions

Turning down the volume in your workshop isn’t just about keeping the sound inside; it’s also about turning down the volume of your tools. Here are a few simple ways to lessen the noise your tools emit:

Straighten up Metal tool stands make a ton of racket if they aren’t bolted down and fastened tightly. Check the bolts regularly to see if they’ve come loose through vibration.

Pad up Instead of mounting a tool directly onto its metal stand, add anti-vibration pads or rubber feet to keep the bad vibrations at bay and reduce the noise.

Beef up If your metal stand sounds like, well, a heavy-metal band, replace it with a shop-built version made from denser material, such as MDF or wood.

Sharpen up Dull blades and bits not only produce shoddy work, they also make more noise than sharp, clean blades.

Tune up Tools not adjusted properly run louder than ones that are well-tuned, so keep your rigs and jigs lubed and aligned.