Tile-cutting techniques and tools

Whether glass, ceramic or stone, tile offers up so many decorative possibilities for surfaces around the house. And it is a great project for all DIYers. Tiling requires proper substrates, correct adhesives or mortars and good layout. But in almost every tiling job you take on, there will come a time (or many) when the tiles need to be cut. You need to have a number of tile-cutting techniques and tools to call upon.

Tools of the trade

Soft, glazed ceramic wall tiles are typically quite thin, making them easy to cut. Straight cuts are easy with a standard snap cutter. Snap cutters use a scoring wheel, guided by a pair of rails, with pressure applied by a lever arm. Locate the cut line accurately and make only one scoring pass, then apply pressure to the lever to snap the tile along the scored line. Do a few test cuts to figure out how much pressure you need to get a clean cut. And be sure the scoring wheel isn’t wobbly, which can lead to an equally wobbly cut.

Tile nippers look like pliers and have pincer jaws that nibble away at tile when you need to make a curved cut. Pre-score the curve with a carbide- wheel glass cutter, then use the nippers to remove the waste tile gradually back to the line. It’s best to twist off tiny pieces by pivoting the handles downward while keeping a firm grip on the tile. Unless you get a lot of practice, the cuts will look a little ragged, which is okay if the cut edges will be covered by mouldings or fixture trim.

There are other simple tools available that rely on the hardness of carbide particles. Carbide-encrusted rod saws fit in a coping-saw frame for cutting curves; and there are carbide-encrusted jigsaw blades for the same purpose. Carbide tools will cut softer materials, but you need to be prepared for some breakage.

Diamonds are a tiler’s best friend

In the case of harder materials, such as porcelain, natural stone and glass tiles, diamonds are key. Even for softer materials, nothing beats diamond cutting for ease of use and predictable results. I recommend diamond cutting tools for even first-time DIY tile projects; they can make the difference between a perfect cut in two minutes and an hour of cursing and broken tiles. The availability and affordability of diamond cutting tools these days is remarkable. You can also rent these tools, but if you plan to use it for more than a few days, the investment may well be worth it, even for a DIY tiler.

For straight cutting of hard materials, nothing beats a wetsaw with a diamond blade. Sliding-table wetsaws with a water pump certainly work well, but smaller 7" machines with a water tray underneath are very affordable and will last for years. Just make sure you keep the tray filled with water, wear eye protection and protect your hearing.

Inexpensive tile saws come with a sliding fence for making straight cuts, and perhaps a jig for cutting 45º angles. When cross cutting narrow pieces, you can make a mitre gauge with a simple scrap of plywood that rides along the fence, keeping your cuts square. Unlike a tablesaw, however, with a little care, tiles can be cut on the wetsaw freehand. When you need a slight angle, scribe the line and make the cut. Because of the water involved, pencil marks often disappear before the cut is finished. You can use a permanent marker or a crayon, but just ensure that an indelible black line won’t be visible after the tile is set.

Straight cuts are one thing, but those tricky, curvy cuts in harder materials can leave you scratching your head. Draw the curve that has to be cut and then make multiple release cuts on the wetsaw from the edge of the tile to the curve. Your tile should end up looking like a comb, with multiple 1?4"-wide (or less) fingers that easily snap off to the line. With a little care, you can fine tune the curve by lifting the tile off the saw table at one edge and use the diamond edge of the saw to grind away gently at the remaining tile bits.

For thick stone or ceramic tiles, you can use an angle grinder with a continuous-rim diamond blade held vertically. When cutting dry, there will be heat buildup and hazardous dust, so you need to protect your lungs and to take it slow, with multiple passes over your initial scoring one.

You can also rent or buy a water-lubricated, diamond-bladed handheld tile saw that looks like a little circular saw that will manage this type of cutting very well in virtually all materials.

Through the looking glass

Glass tile requires slightly specialized tools. Depending on the thickness, you can get a decent cut with a quality oil-lubricated glass cutter. Score the tile with a straightedge, then lay the tile over a thin piece of straight wire, so that the wire is directly underneath the score. Press down on either side of the tile to snap it in two. If you have many cuts to make, use a wetsaw again–but for glass tile, you need a special blade with fine electroplated diamonds. (A regular tile blade will chip glass tile.)

Drilling and coring

You may need to drill or core around pipes and fixtures. You can drill tile with carbide masonry bits, and there are also carbide-encrusted hole saws. But the best option is a diamond ring at the end of a coring bit. The secret–as with most tile-cutting tools–is lubrication and going slow. Start the cutting by guiding the bit with a jig. A V-shape cut out in a scrap of plywood works well. And a dripping, water-filled sponge can keep the bit and tile cool.

With the right tools and techniques at your disposal, you’ll soon make short work of all the pesky tile cuts. Just be sure to plan your layout to minimize the amount of cuts you need to make.


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