Instructions

Preparation

Start by laying out all the pieces on the lumber. To include Oliver in the work, I chose to use hand tools for all of the cutting operations, but you could use power tools if you're building this on your own.

Cut the top and sides to width first; then cut them to length. Use a handsaw to make all the straight cuts. Then clamp the workpieces in a vise to hold them steady while cutting.

Taper the legs of the stool to provide extra stability: lay out the shape of the legs first, then make the straight cuts using a handsaw. To make the semi-circle cutouts on the legs, use a compass to mark the 4"-dia. opening; then cut out using a coping saw. Cut the centre brace to size now. Sand all the pieces and smooth any sharp edges.

Assembly

Assemble the stool using screws. Drill pilot holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Draw layout lines to indicate the position of the centre brace where it meets each leg. Attach the legs to the centre brace first. Hold the centre brace in a vise, end-up, and position the leg onto its end. Drill two pilot holes and drive the screws home to secure the leg. Flip this assembly over and attach the other leg using the same method.

To complete construction, attach the top to the legs and centre brace assembly. Centre the top, drill pilot holes and install the four screws. Before applying finish, sand off any pencil lines you drew on workpieces for fitting purposes.

Oliver and I finished his stool with a wash of boiled linseed oil cut with pure turpentine. This brought out the beautiful colour of the antique pine.

After drying for a day or two, apply several coats of tung oil. (Polymerized tung oil is a good choice for this stool since it needs to endure multiple washings). The end result is a deep and glowing finish.