Choose your deck materials

Frame

When framing your deck, you first need to decide if it will be free-standing or attached to your house with a ledger board. Free-standing decks need support from posts on all sides, so more digging is involved. But if you can’t easily attach the deck to the house, this is a necessary step. However, with a ledger board, you gain strength from the house structure.

The ledger board runs along the side of the house. The board then connects to the deck frame. If your ledger board is attached to brick, you can prevent rot by using a wood spacer block so the board isn’t resting against the masonry. Or you can add a bead of clear caulking at the top to prevent water from getting behind the board. The ledger board is anchored with lag or masonry bolts that extend into the house frame by 1 1/2″. Again, choose the right hardware based on your materials.

The same is true for another important piece of frame hardware: metal joist hangers. These make it easy to connect joists to the ledger board. Choose the right size of hanger based on the joist size (2×8 and 2×10 are the most popular) and use the right screw to fit the hanger holes. When laying out your joists, run them perpendicular to the house whenever possible. You also need to consider your joist spacing carefully. The centre-to-centre measurements for the joists should be between 16″ and 12″.  A strong skeleton is needed for a strong deck.

Rails and stairs

You’ve planned the basic structure, now you can work out some important details. The rails and stairs are not only necessary elements of a deck but also ones that need careful consideration for both safety and beauty.

Pick the railing height based on your local building code. The options for railing styles are almost endless. Between your deck posts, you can build simple balusters with upper and lower rails. (Watch your spacing between the balusters for safety.) Or to keep the view of your yard open, you can use glass panels framed by rails. Some details that you may want to consider are bevelled edges on the rail for drainage and caps for the post tops.

Cascading or simple­­–however you want your stairs to look–they must be designed for safety. Look to your local building code for the minimum/maximum sizes for treads and risers. Open risers are easier to build, but don’t have the same finished look and can be more dangerous. Build your stringers with wood or use plastic stair brackets that act as risers. The stringers must be properly attached to the landing with joist hangers and brackets.  Safety first, aesthetics next.

Finish

To protect your deck from water, dirt and sun, you need to think about the finish. (By the way, if you choose composite wood, you get to skip this section entirely.) Stains and sealers come in film-forming and penetrating formulas. The colour (or transparency) of the finish is up to you.

Film-forming finishes are popular choices. They’re known to peel over time, but with proper preparation (use a random-orbit sander before you begin), you can have a deck finish that lasts more than a few seasons.

Penetrating sealers seep deeply into the wood to protect it. These formulas are less likely to peel; however, some types are prone to mould growth.

Sometimes you get what you pay for, and many believe this is true for deck finishes. Research different brands by asking your friends about their deck successes. As well, review independent testing results, such as those by Consumer Reports magazine.

Plan this final stage with as much care as the construction.

Dress it up!

When designing your deck, you may want to add features that enhance your outdoor living space. Some additions you may want to consider:

– a pergola

– built-in benches

– planter boxes

– latticed privacy wall

– stairway lighting

– outdoor speakers